A community that spans the ages

November 9^th 2025. Badia. The November sky is extraordinarily clear this morning. The air is crisp; it's now late Autumn up here in the valley, yet the bright sun and the cloudless blue sky are managing to keep Winter at bay, even though it will arrive soon enough, whitening the meadows and peaks. The village is buzzing with activity, and I decide to arrive early in order to grab a good front-row seat and not miss a single part of the spectacle that is about to begin. From the smiling faces of the people surrounding me who have just emerged from Holy Mass, and from the electricity crackling in the air, I immediately understand that being present at the Cavalcata di San Leonardo on its twenty-fifth anniversary means witnessing not so much an event, but a living form of collective memory.

Originally intended as a tribute to Saint Leonard, patron saint of animals and farmers, today the Leonardiritt—in Ladin, Rait de San Linert—is much more than a parade. It is a rich and complex event, capable of intertwining culture, agriculture, music, food and wine, but above all community spirit, and the edition I'm about to attend has an even more symbolic significance: not only does it celebrate the 25^th anniversary of the cavalcade, it also coincides with the 700^th anniversary of the first written mention of the village of Badia. This double anniversary restores a profound sense of the long history of this valley, marked by continuity, slow transformations and deep unshakeable roots.

The leading characters are thus 200 horses, including Norikers and Haflingers, accompanied by breeders from all over Alto Adige and the Ladin valleys. For centuries these animals have been an indispensable part of daily life in the mountains. Before the mechanization of agriculture, they were a vital part of the workforce, a means of transportation, and silent companions during days in the fields and woods. Manfred Canins, the heart and soul of the event and a lifelong connection to this rural world, tells the story with clarity and affection. “When I was sixteen, my uncle got injured, and I had to carry all the hay home with my horse. It's a memory that has stayed with me for the rest of my life.” This personal recollection has become a shared memory, because in these valleys the relationship between man and horse has never been something secondary, but rather the backbone of an entire way of life.

The equestrian tradition in the valley is ancient and deeply rooted, and the first local horse breeding association dates back to 1904, a sign of how widespread and deeply ingrained their presence was in the area. Over time, horses have also accompanied the development of tourism: before the construction of modern roads, the first visitors reached the valley's towns by carriage or horse-drawn sleigh. Today, their role is no longer tied to daily agricultural work, but remains alive in local culture through breeding, sporting activities and traditional events. Alta Badia boasts two breeding associations dedicated to the area's main strains: the Noriker, sturdy draft horses that in 2024 celebrated the Val Badia Association’s 120^th anniversary, and the Haflinger, recognizable by their light-coloured coats and blond manes, which are currently in the process of being recognized as a UNESCO intangible cultural heritage. It is within this cultural context that the Leonardiritt, one of the most significant equine events in South Tyrol, takes place.

The Cavalcata di San Leonardo emerged from a simple, almost spontaneous inspiration. Enrico Nagler, president of the event and one of its founders, tells the story which goes back to 25 years ago. “The idea came from the parish council: one day my sister Maria said to me “why don't we do something with horses, since San Leonardo is their patron saint (the parish church of San Leonardo in Badia is dedicated to Saints Leonard and James)?” And so we started, first on a small scale, with just 14 horses and without really knowing what to expect.” It was a simple, almost intimate beginning - a tour of the village, a blessing, some music. Nothing spectacular, but already full of meaning. From there, year after year, the event grew quite naturally, reflecting the community's interest and participation. “At first, we didn't even know whether to do it again the following year” Nagler continues “then we saw that people liked it and that there was interest, so we opened it first to the entire valley, then to the other Ladin valleys, and finally to all of South Tyrol.”

Today, after more than two decades, the numbers are completely different: nearly 200 horses and thousands of spectators are present, yet what is striking is that the essence of the event has remained unchanged. “First and foremost it’s a day of celebration and conviviality” explains Canins. “It’s a moment for being together before the start of the Winter season, when the valley enters its busiest period.” It's not an event established for tourism, but a celebration born out of and for the community. Complete involvement is evident: the parish council, the farmers' associations, the groups in traditional costume, the marching bands, the firefighters. Everyone contributes to building this collective moment in a tangible way, and it is precisely this profound connection that makes it unique. In an area now heavily influenced by international tourism, the Leonardiritt has become a gesture of returning to one’s roots. “It's a moment for reminding ourselves that this is where we come from” observes Canins. “Even though many of us work in the tourism industry today, deep down we're still the children of farmers.”

The high point of the day is the parade, a long procession through the village with horses, decorated carriages and traditional costumes. Two things strike me as soon as the men, women, children, and horses begin to parade in front of me. Firstly, there are the marvellous details: perfectly braided manes decorated with bouquets of flowers, colourful expertly knotted ribbons, leather harnesses finely decorated with the ancient practice of peacock feather embroidery, satin skirts and aprons draped with almost painterly skill over the horses' backs so as not to hinder the women's posture, hats that resemble sculptures... Everyone, people and animals alike, is dressed for the occasion, with all the visible and physical signs of a deeply-held tradition sewn onto them. Secondly, what perhaps captivates me even more is the joy and pride evident in the eyes of everyone marching in an orderly yet festive manner before me.

Music is a must, of course: marching bands accompany the slow pace of the parade, which will soon reach its climax. Canins describes one of the most intense moments thus: “When I get to the first bend and see the entire road filled with horses and thousands of people lining the sides, that's the moment which stays most in my memory. It's the result of a whole year's work.” And then, suddenly, silence comes -  the silence of the blessing. It's the most anticipated moment and perhaps, the most authentic. As Nagler says “During the blessing, there's a unique silence. You can see everyone is excited. For us organizers, too, it's a powerful moment, because with animals, you never know, and we always hope that everything will go well.” The profound meaning of the event lies in that silence: a community that comes together, recognizes its roots and celebrates an ancient bond between human beings, animals and the land.

Beyond its ritualistic aspect, the Cavalcata is also a celebration. The event program unfolds with music ranging from local bands to concerts by local singers, traditional dances, Ladin cuisine and informal, heartfelt moments of coming together and meeting. The valley's farmers prepare “tutres”, barley soup, and “fortaies” which they sell for charity. Besides expressing a culinary culture that is an integral part of the local identity, these recipes also offer an additional excuse to spend time together, enjoying their time-honoured flavours, authentic aromas and delicious textures. I certainly can't help but be won over by these delicacies, which become both my lunch on this festive day and also a priceless memento to take home with me this evening when I return to the city. Rediscovering these flavours in the coming days will be a way to relive these moments and feel a part of this open and cohesive community for a little longer.

After the solemnity of the parade and the lightness of the food, it's time for the competition. In recent years, new elements have been added to the complexity of the Leonardiritt, such as the Leonardi Trophy, inspired by Alpine equestrian competitions (such as the famous Oswald von Wolkenstein Ritt held annually in Fiè allo Sciliar), which introduces a more dynamic and spectacular dimension. Several men's and women's teams compete in a contest of agility and dexterity, capturing the attention and bringing cheers from the “fans”. It's an almost cathartic moment, perfectly complementing the intense pace of the day, and this recent addition to the program is an indication of how the event is continuing to evolve without losing coherency, because ultimately, this is precisely where its strength lies: in its ability to grow while remaining true to itself; to welcome without losing its character and to change while maintaining a solid core.

“We also see a lot of young people coming up to us and getting involved” Canins concludes. “As long as this spirit persists, the event will continue.” And looking at that long line of horses passing through the village, it's not hard for me to believe him, because here in Alta Badia, tradition isn't an image to be preserved, but a living enactment, a movement, a shared rhythm. Just like this cavalcade, which - step after step and trot after trot - has continued to tell the story of a community for more than twenty-five years.